THE TASTE OF MACEDONIA
Poured by
Aneta Perevska
Part of our centuries-old culture is the art we create in the kitchen, art in which we enjoy with enormous appetite. Macedonia can be proud of its traditional cuisine developed as an original mixture of all cultural influences here.
Who can remain indifferent to “ajvar” (traditional red pepper spread) with hot bread and cheese, “taratur” sauce and “shopska” salad in a cozy atmosphere in some local tavern, stuffed cabbage leaves, stuffed peppers on the family table – all prepared according to authentic recipes which are always, literally always done best by our grandmother? All that combined with beer, juice for the young ones – a real enjoyment. However, we do not stop here, prepare yourselves for more!
Macedonian cuisine is not only traditional but, at the same time, it has an enormous power to relieve hunger and open the senses for new gastronomical experiences. Its food has got enchanting scent, momentarily increases an appetite and successfully fights the “fast food” trend.
It’s a blessing that we have a lot of places where you can taste this satisfaction, from local taverns with checked tablecloths and warm, welcoming staff to bigger restaurants where they greet us in a more luxurious atmosphere.
Whatever city you go to, the locals, if asked, will surely direct you to several places which offer traditional Macedonian food and will certainly recommend some of the local specialties.
The cult of “resident” taverns is spread all over the country, so while you are reading this you are probably reminded of a person you know who is a regular patron in the local tavern and is known to all the members of the staff. Maybe, just maybe you are one of them, too.
Taking into consideration the variety of the Macedonian table and the abundance of nice taverns, the task to answer in details to a question by a foreigner: “Where can I go, what can I eat?” is as difficult as preparing stuffed cabbage leaves. That is why we designed a “guide” which will facilitate the task. Share this link and wait for them to call you and then take them to your favorite tavern.
In these places you follow the protocol, but sensibly, with moderate toasts. So, this is the way:
You enter with your right foot to avoid the misfortune of people ringing to you to leave in the middle of a feast.
As a starter you order salad, “pindjur”, cheese – just to have a snack.
You make a second order for which you have a wide choice depending on the location and the appetite. The menu almost always contains:
- kebabs (served together with onions and for the lovers of a piquant taste, they are combined with “bukovec” (ground red pepper) or hot slightly baked pepper),
- “musaka” (you will never make a mistake with this really tasty and carefully arrayed dish – a layer of minced meat with onions and spices, a layer of thinly sliced potatoes, a layer of aubergine and so on),
- stuffed cabbage leaves (similar to musaka, a regular companion of the Macedonian table, is made up of minced meat, onions, rice and spices rolled up in a sour cabbage leaf. A variation is a grape leaf. Really tasty!),
- “tavce gravce” (beans cooked in a skillet) (if possible, from Tetovo and certainly on Friday. As children you have probably avoided it, but as you grow older you search for it in the restaurants’ menus, but also at home),
- “pastrmajlija” (oval shaped baked dough topped with salted cubed meat) (it can be from Shtip, Veles, Radovish or Kratovo – anyhow. You won’t regret the moment you taste the explosion of savories from this simple but really tasty specialty prepared from a special type of dough and salted meat),
- pie with sour milk (if possible baked under cast-iron convex lid. Layers of thinly twirled dough, filled with cabbage or leak in the middle. Say no more!),
- “bakrdan” (Galichnik is the real place for this typical Macedonian tasty dish which is made from corn flour, combined with cheese, from Berovo, of course),
- “turlitava” (typical Macedonian dish, rich in flavors owing to the abundance of vegetables slightly baked in an oven),
- “selsko meso” (best made by our grandmothers, but equally tasty “selsko meso” with pork or beef can be found in a large number of Macedonian restaurants and it is served in an earthenware pot).
You order beer with the main course and you allow the savories to lead you. However, you do not allow them to take you far away. The beer is created to be enjoyed with delight and moderation. Depending on the food you can choose light beer, dark, fruit or one with lemon…
Before you pay the bill, choose a dessert, for example, baklava. taste it in combination with SKOPSKO cherry, a real enjoyment.
On leaving look again in the menu, choose your next try and think whom you would invite to be your company next time because these specialties are tastier when eaten in company of others. The best thing to do is to walk for a while and thus burn some of the calories.
Macedonia is famous for its numerous nice taverns, restaurants and the culture of having lunch with friends and family is part of what we are. Where else can you taste the magic of Macedonian food if not in a comfortable setting, surrounded by happy company, great music and beer for pleasure…
The opinions expressed herein are the author's and do not necessarily represent the views of Pivara Skopje.
