WHAT IS OLDER, “PASTRMAJLIJA” OR THE DEBATE REGARDING ITS ORIGIN?

Pastrmajlija – a really tasteful Macedonian traditional specialty. It is eaten warm and by some rule (which is not respected by everyone) only in the months which contain the letter “r” in their names. It is made from a special type of dough and meat. The traditional one has an oval form and its name originates from the word “pastrma” which means salted and dried meat from sheep or lamb.

If you consult Wikipedia for its origin you will only read – Macedonia.

Which city precisely? Well, this is the issue to discuss in several Macedonian cities. The answer depends on who you ask. People from Shtip will say that it originates from Shtip, the ones from Veles accept only the pie from Veles and in Radovish people are proud of their original hot bread. Actually, this is one of the questions that I cannot answer correctly either.

Trying to find the real recipe for the dough is equally complicated as the debate over the origin. The way of its preparation is a secret kept by all experienced cooks but one thing we all know is that “pastrmajlija” is the tastiest when it is baked in a public oven and then combined with beer and a good company.

SHTIP “PASTRMAJLIJA”

Shtip “pastrmajlija” is among the most famous (with due respect to other types of “pastrmajlija”). The city by itself offers a unique blend of old culture and fast life and “pastrmajlija” is common to both. It is made literally everywhere – in the old local taverns but also in the new pizzerias. At the peak of the season 5000 pieces are taken out of the oven daily!

After your walk through the town under the Isar you should only choose the place where you will treat yourself with “pastrmajlija” made according to well-kept recipe. People from Shtip are especially strict regarding their recipe – the only thing we know is that the dough is prepared as if for bread but much softer, then an oval pie is made and previously prepared pure pork (on demand, chicken) is put above spiced with salt, pepper and red pepper which make it special. What is more, it is baked on lard.

As it is appropriate for a dish that the whole city is proud of, from 2006 the “pastrmajlija” from Shtip has its own festival, called “Pastrmajlijada”. Since then, at the end of September or at the beginning of October, the city is crowded with guests from all parts of Macedonia (and out of it) and the local cooks proudly try and surely succeed to amaze the sense of taste of thousands of people competing in making the best “pastrmajlija”. Sometimes they join to make a giant “pastrmajlija”. The result – 100 000 “pastrmajlijas” eaten, thousands of satisfied guests, a lot of famous music names, an excellent three-day friendship and an experience that will be long talked about. This manifestation became very popular and visited in such a short time that new, bigger locations are sought to gather all the fans of this delicious specialty. The locations have changed (from the city square to several locations through the street “Vancho Prke”) but the quality of the “pastrmajlija” and the atmosphere have been on the same level.

What can such a successful and visited Macedonian festival be without the stall of the brewery Pivara Skopje. Cold Skopsko beer and hot Shtip “pastrmajlija” – two unique Macedonian brands, two unique Macedonian tastes supplement each other. We are aware that the two tastes are irresistible but moderation is the basic precondition for continuous and long enjoyment. That’s why be careful with your beer intake and also the calories.

Shtip is so serious about this specialty that has officially gained a certificate which validates the branding of “Shtipska pastrmajlija”. That means that the recipe and the standardization are protected by the State institute for industrial ownership and “Shtipska pastrmajlija” can be sold only by owners of the appropriate certificate. The others sell only “pastrmajlija”.

That is why you should pay attention to this fact in the menu when you make your order.

VELES PIE

From the east we go to the heart of Macedonia, in Veles where you can try a bit different “pastrmajlija” or as the people of Veles say – pie “pastrmajlija”. Their trump in the “fight” for authenticity of this famous gastronomic specialty is the fact that, different from Shtip, they use “pastrma” – sheep or goat meat which is finely cut, salted and smoked and also sprinkled with egg.

“Well, if there is no pastrma then it is not pastrmajlija”, people from Veles often say.

Apart from the ingredients, the pie from Veles differs in shape from the one from Shtip which is longer. It is a bit more round at the ends.

People from Veles can boast with a tradition older than 140 years, which is deeply implanted in their everyday life up until today. The pie is a brand related to the golden years of the creation of the city from a Turkish provincial town to modern European city with developed trade and handicraft. In the beginning it was a master-piece of the grandmothers who cooked for family gatherings and now everyone can enjoy it in a restaurant, pizzeria or even a café. It’s as easy as

Two plus two – you order a “pastrmajlija” and a jar of beer and what you get is ultra pleasurable gastronomic experience. If you go to Veles for a pie for the first time try the “gemidziska pastrmajlija” – it is said to be the best on a lot of Internet forums. Don’t forget – do not drive if you drink.

To make the experience complete be sure to visit “Veleshka pitijada”, which usually takes place around 10^th October on the street “Blagoj Gjorev” where you can try this specialty in joyful atmosphere intensified with music, cold beer and old but also new friends. In case you start chatting about the origin of the “pastrmajlija”, bear in mind that the people from Veles are very sensitive about this topic.

RADOVISH “PASTRMAJLIJA”

Radovish is one more city from the east of the country that can boast being a home of this tasty Macedonia specialty. Its citizens are also convinced that the “pastrmajlija” from Radovish is the original one but they name it “samun” which goes together with one more traditional Macedonian specialty, “tatlija” – a tasty dessert, a type of an oriental sweet made with fresh cheese. Here, the “pastrmajlija” (the samun) differs from the ones from Shtip and Veles because it is made with “sazdrma” which is a type of dish made of diced sheep or beef meat.

In honor of these Radovish delicacies, every year after 15^th October, a festival is organized.It is named “Samun em tatlija” when local cooks set stalls on the square St. Spaso Radovishki with their specialties and they make it difficult for the visitors to make a choice. The beer, upon which we agreed that combines really well with this specialty, should be consumed after you have tried one “samun”. Thus you will prepare yourself for more toasts. Do not sit behind the steering wheel if you drink.

SVETI NIKOLSKA, KRATOVSKA…

This extremely tasty recipe is passed on with generations both in Sveti Nikole and Kratovo. The first ones prepare it from freshly made dough, fresh pork, but also sheep cheese and eggs. The people from Kratovo use dried meat, smoked pork and in the local taverns you can also ask to be made with sheep “pastrma”.

After this gastronomic odyssey, apart from the appetite we have one more dilemma to which we lack an answer and that is – which of all these is the best “pastrmajlija”. However, we can warmly recommend that you begin a “pastrmajlija” expedition and convince yourself that the only option we have is to be grateful that the “pastrmajlijas” were created in our country. Till then, good appetite and one beer but responsibly– “Cheers”.